Make it ! Diamonds Christmas Tree !!!

...Well, it has been a while since my last post, right ?

I`ve been missing this place a lot and I hope to be here regurarly from now on, hoping you love the idea, too !!!

So December is here again and I love this time of the year very much and that`s why I have a pattern  to show you my last christmassy idea... are you ready to follow me?

WHAT YOU NEED :

5mm and 4mm hooks
scissors
yarn needle
pompom maker : I use a 45mm Clover pompom maker 
some colourful mini bells
PVA glue, brush, pins, blocking board or foam tiles

YARN : it`s all from my personal stash. I`m using a selection of Simply Aran from Paintbox Yarns (the Diamonds part), some Sirdar no 1 for the embellishments (pompoms, candies), and some metallic options (Hayfield Bonus Glitter, Sparkle Glamourus Yarn from B&M, etc). I will try to more specific later in the pattern writing.

Please, remember I follow the US crochet terminology !!

My turning chain (=2ch) is never considered as a proper stitch.

Difficulty level : Intermediate

ABOUT THE PATTERN

As you can see from the above picture, the tree is made of diamond motifs. The pattern starts with the triangle on the bottom left and ends with the triangle at the bottom right. In the between, you work vertical strips of motifs, joined one after the other with a sort of "Join-As-You-Go" method. The joining itself is made using slip stitches and it`s well explained in the pattern. In this way, no sewing is involved.

PATTERN STARTS

You can use a maximum of 7 different shades. The above 4 triangles are crocheted using a 5mm hook and a selection of Simply Aran Paintbox Yarns . Obviously, you can use any substitute from your personal yarn stash.

First Strip (T1) = triangle motif

Choose a starting colour, make a slip knot on your hook and work a foundation chain of 14 chains.

Row 1 (Right Side) : wrap yarn around hook and insert tip in 3rd chain from hook and work your first DC, then 9DC, DC2tog in last 2 stitches, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC,1st decr row]

Row 2 (Wrong Side) : 9DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [10 DC]

Row 3 : 8DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 4 : 7DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [8DC]

Row 5 : 6DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 6 : 5DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [6 DC]

Row 7 : 4DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 8 : 3DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [4 DC]

Row 9 : 2DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC]

Row 10 (WS) : 1DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [2 DC]

Row 11 (RS) : DC2tog, fasten off. [1 DC, last decr row]

Your first triangle (and so your 1st strip!) is done.

Select the new colour to start

Second Strip (D2) = 1 diamond motif (joining starts, too) 

 Insert tip of your hook in base of 1st DC of Row 1 of previous triangle (T1) and make a slip stich to join new yarn, then work 3ch.

Row 1 (RS) : wrap yarn, insert hook in 1st ch and work 2DC into it, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 1 of  T1, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 2 of T1, TURN.  [ 2 DC, 1st incr row]

Row 2 (WS) : 1DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC ]

Row 3 : 2DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 3 of  T1, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 4 of T1, TURN. [4 DC ]

Row 4 : 3DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 5 : 4DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 5 of  T1, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 6 of T1, TURN. [6 DC ]

Row 6 : 5DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 7 : 6DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 7 of  T1, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 8 of T1, TURN. [8 DC ]

Row 8 : 7DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 9 : 8DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 9 of  T1, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 10 of T1, TURN. [10 DC ]

Row 10 (WS) : 9DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC] 

Row 11 (RS) : 10DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 9 of  T1, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 10 of T1, TURN. [12 DC, last incr row ]

From now on starts the decreasing and no more joining :

Row 12 (WS) : 10DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC, 1st decr row)

Row 13 (RS) : 9DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [10 DC]

Row 14 : 8DC. DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 15 : 7DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [8 DC]

Row 16 : 6DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 17 : 5DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [6 DC]

Row 18 : 4DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 19 : 3DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [4 DC]

Row 20 : 2DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC]

Row 21 (RS) : 1DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [2 DC]

Row 22 (WS) : DC2tog, fasten off. [1 DC, last decr row] 

Your first diamond is done, so it`s your 2nd strip.

Select new colour and start

Third Strip (D3) = triangle+diamond motifs

 Insert tip of your hook in base of 1st DC of Row 1 of previous diamond (D2) and make a slip stich to join new yarn, then work 14 ch.

Row 1 (RS) : wrap yarn, insert hook in 3rd chain from hook and work your 1st DC into it, then 9DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 1 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 2 of D2, TURN. [11 DC, 1st decr row]

Row 2 (WS) : 9DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [10 DC]

Row 3 : 8DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 3 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch into top of 1st DC of Row 4 of D2, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 4 : 7DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [8 DC]

Row 5 : 6DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 5 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch into top of 1st DC of Row 6 of D2, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 6 : 5DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [6 DC] 

Row 7 : 4DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 7 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch into top of 1st DC of Row 8 of D2, TURN. [5 DC] 

Row 8 : 3DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [4 DC] 

Row 9 :  2DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 9 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch into top of 1st DC of Row 10 of D2, TURN. [3 DC] 

Row 10 (WS) : 1DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [2 DC]

Row 11 (RS) : DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 11 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch into top of 1st DC of Row 12 of D2, TURN. [1 DC, last decr row]  

From now starts the increasing with some more joining :

Row 12 (WS) : 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [2 DC, 1st incr row]

Row 13 (RS) : 1DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of row 13 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 14 of D2, TURN. [3 DC]

Row 14 : 2DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [4 DC]

Row 15 : 3DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of row 15 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 16 of D2, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 16 : 4DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [6 DC]

Row 17 : 5DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of row 17 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 18 of D2, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 18 : 6DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [8 DC]

Row 19 : 7DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of row 19 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 20 of D2, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 20 (WS) : 8DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [10 DC]

Row 21 (RS) : 9DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of row 21 of D2, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 22 of D2, TURN. [11 DC ]

Row 22 (WS) : 10DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [12 DC, last incr row] 

From now starts the decreasing with no more joining :

Row 23 (RS) :  10DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC]

Row 24 (WS) : 9DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [10 DC]

Row 25 : 8DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 26 : 7DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [8 DC]

Row 27 : 6DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 28 : 5DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [6 DC]

Row 29 : 4DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 30 : 3DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [4 DC]

Row 31 : 2DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC ]

Row 32 (WS) : 1DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [2 DC]  

Row 33 (RS) : DC2tog, fasten off. [1 DC, last decr row] 

Select new colour and start

Fourth Strip (D4) = 2 diamond motifs

 Insert tip of your hook in base of 1st DC of Row 1 of previous triangle (D3) and make a slip stich to join new yarn, then work 3ch.

Row 1 (RS) : wrap yarn, insert hook in 1st ch and work 2DC into it, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 1 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 2 of D3, TURN.  [ 2 DC, 1st incr row]

Row 2 (WS) : 1DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC ]

Row 3 : 2DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 3 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 4 of D3, TURN. [4 DC ]

Row 4 : 3DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 5 : 4DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 5 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 6 of D3, TURN. [6 DC ]

Row 6 : 5DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 7 : 6DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 7 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 8 of D3, TURN. [8 DC ]

Row 8 : 7DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 9 : 8DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 9 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 10 of D3, TURN. [10 DC ]

Row 10 (WS) : 9DC, 2DC in last stitch, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC] 

Row 11 (RS) : 10DC, 2DC in last stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 9 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 10 of D3, TURN. [12 DC, last incr row ]

From now on starts the decreasing and more joining :

Row 12 (WS) : 10DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC, 1st decr row)

Row 13 (RS) : 9DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 13 of D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 14 of D3, TURN. [10 DC]

Row 14 : 8DC. DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 15 : 7DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 15 of D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 16 of D3, TURN. [8 DC] 

Row 16 : 6DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 17 : 5DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 17 of D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 18 of D3, TURN. [6 DC] 

Row 18 : 4DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 19 : 3DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 19 of D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 20 of D3, TURN. [4 DC]

Row 20 : 2DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC]

Row 21 (RS) :  1DC, DC2tog, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 21 of D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 22 of D3, TURN. [2 DC]

Row 22 (WS) : DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [1 DC, last decr row]

From now on starts the increasing and more joining :

Row 23 (RS) : 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 23 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 24 of D3, TURN. [2 DC ]

Row 24 (WS) :  1DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC]

Row 25 : 2DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 25 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 26 of D3, TURN. [4 DC ]

Row 26 : 3DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC] 

Row 27 : 4DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 27 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 28 of D3, TURN. [6 DC ]

Row 28 : 5DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]  

Row 29 :  6DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 29 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 30 of D3, TURN. [8 DC ]

Row 30 : 7DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]  

Row 31 : 8DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 31 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 32 of D3, TURN. [10 DC ]

Row 32 (WS) :  9DC, 2DC in same stitch, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC]  

Row 33 (RS) : 10DC, 2DC in same stitch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 33 of  D3, 2ch, slip stitch (=joining) into top of 1st DC of Row 34 of D3, TURN. [12 DC, last incr row ]

From now starts the decreasing with no more joining :

Row 34 (WS) :  10DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [11 DC]

Row 35 : 9DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [10 DC]

Row 36 : 8DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [9 DC]

Row 37 : 7DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [8 DC]

Row 38 : 6DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [7 DC]

Row 39 : 5DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [6 DC]

Row 40 : 4DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [5 DC]

Row 41 : 3DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [4 DC]

Row 42 : 2DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [3 DC ]

Row 43 (RS) : 1DC, DC2tog, 2ch, TURN. [2 DC]  

Row 44 (WS) : DC2tog, fasten off. [1 DC, last decr row] 

Select new colour and start

Fifth Strip (D5) =  triangle+diamond motifs

Same pattern as for D3, with the difference that you have to join from Row 23 to Row 33 to the correspondent rows of D4.

Select New colour and start

Sixth Strip (D6) = diamond motif

Same pattern as for D2, but you need to join from Row 12 to Row 22 to the corresponding rows of D5.

Select new colour and start

Seventh Strip (T2) = triangle motif

Same pattern of first 11 rows of D3

Weave in all ends !

EDGING and TREE TRUNK

Using a selection of metallic yarns (Hayfield Bonus Glitter, Sparkle Glamorous Yarn, and some others!!) I did a simple edging around the tree and I added a trunk, too.

Working with 2 threads together and a 5mm hook, you need to keep the RS of the tree facing you, but upside-down, so you start to crochet from its bottom.

Make a slip knot on your hook and insert the tip of 1st diamond on the right (see above picture, yellow arrow) and work your first SC.
Work 1 SC in each bottom chain
Work 2 SC along each DC, on both sides
Work 2 or 3 SC in each bottom corner
When you reach the tree top, chain 21 and slip stitch in 1st chain to make a hanging loop

When you reach the 1st SC of the edging, complete the border with a slip stitch and work 2ch.

In the next 25 stitches work one DC in each one, 2ch, Turn. Repeat other 4 times (so you will a total of 5 rows) to have a small tree trunk. Fasten off.

Weave in ends.

BLOCKING

You need to pin your tree, with WS facing you, on a blocking board or foam tiles.

The only tree it`s better to block later, after the embellishments. is the Argyle tree!

Prepare a solution of tap water and PVA glue in equal parts to brush on the back of the tree in order to stiffen it.

Let it dry completely.

Once ready, you can start to decorate it!

ARGYLE TREE

You have to select a couple of contrasting colours from the metallic yarns and with the help of a 4mm hook you just have to work slip stitches to create the argyle effect, first one colour in one direction, then the other colour in the opposite direction.

Starting from the middle bottom of each triangle, you have to draw lines almost parallel (!!!) to the sides of the diamond motifs.... it seems scary and impossible, but believe me it is not !

Once the Argyle design is completed, you can block your tre and when it`s dry, you can add some colourful bells, too!

BOWS TREE

Each bow is a chain made of 70 chains, worked with 2 strands, and knotted into the front of the tree.

4 bells are added to embellish the bottom.

POMPOM TREE

Using the 45mm Clover pompom maker and a strand of metallic yarn together with a strand of Sirdar no 1 , prepare 15 pompoms to knot to the front of the tree. Very easy, but so effective!

CANDY CANES and PEPPERMINT CANDIES TREE

....luckily I already wrote a pattern for these candies a while ago !!!

You can find the instructions right HERE !!!

Obviously you can decide to embellish (or not!) your tree with other ideas : as you know very well, the sky is the limit!!!

Anyhow, I`m curious to know who remembers the original idea for this pattern???

If you follow me regularly on IG (HERE) , maybe you remember these pictures from Christmas 2016...

... or not???

Please, let me know if you are crocheting a tree or two....thank you !!!

xxxx Alessandra

Please note that:

No part of this pattern may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, without the prior

written permission of the copyright holder. You are welcome to gift or sell any of your finished items,

only if you are an individual crafter. Please, make a link to my blog/instagram feed to credit the pattern
to my name ! I would really appreciate that!!!

https://www.instagram.com/homemadeatmyplace/

http://homemadeatmyplace.blogspot.com/

  

  

Make It ! The Stabby Granny Tote Bag !!!

As promised on my Instagram feed , I'm ready to show you how to make a market bag using the STABBY GRANNY SQUARE, whose pattern can be found on Miki's blog (HERE) and on Emily's blog (HERE), too !!!!!

Emily and Miki have prepared even two free patterns to make something nice and useful from the stabby grannies : a pair of STABBY GRANNY GLOVES and a STABBY GRANNY COWL !!!

I was curious to try the STABBY GRANNY SQUARE and I was so pleased with the tickness of the fabric...

... that I decided to make a bag, instead !!! I think this idea was even influenced by the JAPANESE KNOT BAG I've crocheted almost 10 days ago... But that pattern was not mine (it's from a Japanese crochet book), so I decided to make a similar one, with different granny squares, different handles and a different method of joining !!! ;oD

WHAT YOU NEED :

- a 4,5 mm hook
- a pair of scissors
- a yarn needle
- stitch markers, useful to point out the stitches (along the top of the bag) where to attach the handles!
- some colourful yarns : I was using, from my personal stash, a selection of  DK acrylics from Filati Cervinia CAPRICE, Lane Biella MARK, Filati Tre Sfere LANA LANA and some "two colour strands" from TIGER Garn/Yarn !
- follow the basic STABBY GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN by MIKI and EMILY and crochet a total of 26 stabby grannies (18 for the bag + 8 for the handles)

Remember I use and follow the US crochet terminology, thank you !!!!

I prefer not to sew my crochet pieces together (you can do that, instead, if you prefer!) and I use the "join-as-you-go" method, the same that Miki uses for her COWL !!

My grannies are made of 8 rounds (bag panels) or 6 rounds (handles), but you can choose if to crochet smaller or bigger ones !!! ;oD


FIRST PANEL

The colours for my grannies were chosen while crocheting each one of them !

Only the first square (=the central one) was completely crocheted in 8 rounds.

The other squares were completed (part of the 8th round was done during the join) while joining to the main square and/or to the other ones !

SECOND PANEL

Nothing difficult, as I followed the previous method, used for the first panel!

I only put one big safety pin on the bag's "top-to-be", just to remember not to join that side, too, as the bag needs an openining to put in and out your own stuff (grocery, books, crochet, knitting, etc...)!

Each panel measures : 44 cm x 44 cm

The lovely thing about this joining method is that you don't really need to block your squares, as they are stretched into the right shape while joining them !

Just look at the above picture : the pink square and the black one have slightly curved sides, but when the green square is joined, the sides become straight !!!! Really good !!!!


TOP BORDER of the BAG (two rounds)

Pick up your bag-to-be and, keeping it in front of you with the opening upward, insert the hook in the right top corner of the first square and join the new yarn. Chain 1 and make 1 DC (=double crochet) in the same corner.

The idea is to make a complete round of "stabby shells" (may I say that ??) in each space between couples of shells of the stabby squares : easy peasy, right? (look the above pictures)

How to behave into the adjoining corners of two squares ?

Very simple (look above pictures) : work 1 DC in last corner, 1 DC in space between the two corners, 1 DC in new corner !!!

The pattern is repeated around the entire opening of the bag.

When you work your last DC (= the one in the space between first square and last square !), slip stitch in the top of the first DC of the round to complete your first round !

After the slip stitch, with the same yarn chain 1 and work 1 single crochet (=SC) in the same stitch.
Crochet 1 SC in each stitch of the first round. When you reach the last stitch, make a slip stitch in first SC made.

Cut yarn, fasten off and weave in all the tails : your border is done !!!

BAG HANDLES (make 2)

Differently from the Japanese knot bag, the handles in this tote bag are symmetrical and each of them are made of 4 stabby squares.

The other difference is that we are going to work a smaller stabby square : instead of 8 rounds, this time we need squares of 6 rounds each !

Another important thing to note is that each side of the squares (6th round completed) is made of 20 stitches. From corner to corner you will count in : 1 chain, 3 half double crochets, 4 shells of 3 stitches each (total stitches = 12), 3 half double crochets and 1 chain.

Knowing this, you have to place your stitch markers along the bag border in the stitches where you intend to attach your handles. A couple of stitch markers for each handle end, positioning the first marker in the 1st stitch and the 2nd marker in the 20th stitch ! ;oD

Even this time I'm using the "join-as-you-go" method, but you can simply stitch the handles along the bag border, if you prefer.

1- attaching the square along the border

You have to put the bag upside-down, with the opening towards yourself.

You need even a stabby granny with 5 rounds completed.

Start the 6th (and last ) round of your square (in any corner) : 3 half DC, chain 1 and start the joining, as follows :

slip stitch in first stitch of the border (where you have your stitch marker, mine is gone, but you see an arrow on the right of the above picture), work 1 hDC (=half double crochet) and slip stitch in the correspondent stitch along the border, work 1 hDC and slip stitch in the correspondent stitch along the border, work last hDC and slip stitch in correspondent stitch along the border. The first corner of your square is done !
Work the following 4 shells (= 12 stitches) in the same way : after each stitch of the shells are done, remember to make a slip stitch in the correspondent stitch along the border !
When the shells are completed and all 12 stitches are joined to the border, work the first 4 stitches of the second corner :  3 hDC (work one stitch, then make a slip stitch in the correspondent stitch along the border, 3 times!), then 1 slip stitch in last correspondent stitch along the border, where you have the other stitch marker!!! JOINING DONE !

To complete the corner, just : chain 1 and work 3 hDC ! Continue to crochet the last round as usual!

2- attaching the following two squares of the handle

This time the joining is much more simpler, as you have only to slip stitch in the spaces between two shells, as Miki already described in her COWL pattern.

You need other 2 stabby squares, with their 5th round completed.

You start the 6th round as usual : 3 hDC in any corner, then chain 1. Crochet a slip stitch in the opposite corner of the square already joined (see above picture), then work the other 3 hDC in same corner, with no extra slip stitches! Slip stitch in space between corner and first shell and crochet an usual shell, with no slip stitches !!! Repeat this simple pattern until you reach the 2nd corner, where you work 3 hDC, slip stitch in second corner of previous square, chain 1 and work 3 hDC in corner.

Continue your square as usual!

Repeat the same joining for the 3rd square, too !!!

3- attaching the 4th square

You have to use both joining methods this time !

First you use the simpler one to join the two squares together, while to join this last square to the other side of the bag, just follow the first method showed to you !!!

You have to repeat all this work for the 2nd handle, too !!!! ;oD

Black edging around the handles and top border

Simply crochet a round of single crochet, along the outer and inner sides (plus the top borders left out from the joining) of the handles, just to complete your beautiful bag !!!!

TA-DAH :

xxxx Alessandra

P.S. : if you liked this photo tutorial (thank you!), please feel free to check my other free patterns right here, on the MAKE IT ! page !!!!